A complete guide to the Cologne Christmas market 2023 (+ map, opening dates, the best hotels to stay and best things to do in December).
The Christmas markets are a beloved tradition in Germany dating back centuries ago. Festive decorations, sparkling lights, stalls packed with culinary delights and mulled wine – the Germans just know how to celebrate Christmas!
The first Christmas market in Cologne (called Nikolaimarkt) opened in 1820 at Alter Markt. It quickly turned into a favourite tradition during the festive season. In the late 20th century, several new themed markets appeared all over the city.
Today, Cologne features one of the best Christmas markets not only in Germany but in Europe as well! So, If you’re looking for a traditional Christmas market experience in Germany, the city definitely should be on your list.
In this Cologne Christmas market guide, I’ll share all you have to know to experience the best of the city. From opening dates and locations of the markets to popular Christmas activities and the best hotels to stay in – everything you need to plan the perfect holiday vacation.
Cologne Christmas market guide 2023
Cologne features 8 large Christmas markets, all located in the city centre. Each market is devoted to a different theme and has a unique vibe and atmosphere. From angel and harbour-themed markets to a gnome village, each of them is well worth a visit.
The best Christmas markets in Cologne are located at the Cathedral, Alter Markt, Heumarkt and Neumarkt. All markets are easily accessible on foot, only the one in the Stadtgarten is a little bit further out from the Old Town.
When does the Cologne Christmas market start?
In general, the Christmas markets in Cologne open on 23 November and continue till 23 December. The stalls are open daily between 11:00 AM and 09:00 PM.
Cologne Christmas market dates 2023
From 23 November to 23 December
Daily from 11:00 AM to 09:00 P
For more details check each market’s opening times (below in the post).
Are the Christmas markets open on Sunday?
Yes, all markets are open on Sunday with extended working hours in the evenings.
Is there any market open after Christmas?
Yes, the Heinzels Wintermärchen at Heumarkt continues till 7 January and the Harbour Christmas Market – till 1 January. However, both of them are closed on 24 and 25 December.
Tips about Cologne Christmas market
Accommodation – since December is a peak period for visiting Cologne, be sure to reserve a hotel in advance.
My favourite place to stay in Cologne: CityClass Hotel Residence am Dom
Why: central location, just a short walk from 3 big Christmas markets
What I like: very comfy beds and excellent breakfast
Best time to visit – to explore the market with fewer crowds, go during weekdays in the daytime. Come back in the evening for mulled wine and to enjoy the festive atmosphere. If possible avoid the weekends, which is the busiest time.
Map – find here a map of the precise locations of the market.
Sightseeing – if this is your first visit to the city, take a look at my guide on how to visit Cologne in one day, where you’ll find the best things to do and my favourite places to eat.
Best Christmas markets in Cologne
Cologne has 8 Christmas markets and almost all of them are worth a visit if you have enough time. Still, there are 4 which definitely should be on your list. Continue reading to find out which are the best Christmas markets in Cologne and which ones you can skip.
To discover the best of the markets and enjoy some local beer, take this Kölsch Beer and Christmas Market Tour. You’ll visit some of the city’s popular brewhouses, learn about the famous Kölsch beer and enjoy a mulled wine at the markets.
Cologne Christmas markets 2023
- Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market
- Heinzels Wintermärchen at Heumarkt
- Heinzels Wintermärchen at Alter Markt
- Angels’ Christmas Market
- Nicholas’ Village Christmas Market
- Harbour Christmas Market
- Stadtgarten Christmas Market
- Heavenue Market
Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market
Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt am Dom) is the city’s most beautiful market. Set at the backdrop of the impressive Gothic cathedral, this market features a giant fir tree with a blanket of 50,000 lights emerging from its top. It’s pure magic in the evenings when everything is lit up.
150 wooden stalls encircle the fir tree, creating a maze full of delicious treats, drinks and beautiful Christmas decorations. In its centre, you’ll find a stage, where you can catch over 100 festive performances and live music every evening.
Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom
From 23 November to 23 December
From Sunday to Wednesday – 11:00 AM to 09:00 PM
From Thursday to Saturday – 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Address: Roncalliplatz 1, 50667 Köln
Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom official website
Heinzels Wintermärchen at Heumarkt
Heinzels Winter Fairytale (Heinzels Wintermärchen) is the city’s largest and most magical market. Devoted to the legendary house elves (Heinzelmännchen), this market features a fairytale theme with richly decorated wooden stalls.
According to the legend, Heinzelmännchen were house gnomes, who helped the citizens of Cologne with the housework at night when everybody was asleep. Unfortunately, one day a tailor’s wife decided that she had to see the creatures. She threw peas onto the floor of the workshop so that when the house elves came, they would slip and fall. Her actions had disastrous consequences. The gnomes got angry, disappeared and had never returned since that day.
Luckily, you still have a chance to see these little creatures, as you’ll find them all over the market. The gnome theme is reflected even in the mug designs!
The Heinzels Wintermärchen is split into two locations within walking distance from each other – at Heumarkt and at Alter Markt (in front of the City Hall). Both markets are huge, featuring over 100 stalls, split into different themed laneways, so make sure to dedicate plenty of time to exploring. Also, they have different opening dates, so I decided to list them separately in the blog post.
At the Heinzels Wintermärchen Heumarkt, you’ll find a 2,400 square metres open ice rink and curling. Also, this is the place to go for some delicious food, as at this market there are plenty of savoury and sweet options. And to escape the cold, just head to any of the cosy wooden chalets for some mulled wine!
Heinzels Wintermärchen at Heumarkt
From 24 November 2023 to 7 January 2024
26 November, 24 and 25 December – Closed
Daily – from 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Address: Heumarkt
Heinzels Wintermärchen official website
Heinzels Wintermärchen at Alter Markt
The two sections of Heinzels Wintermärchen (at Heumarkt and at Alter Markt) are connected with the so-called Antique Alley. You’ll find a variety of antiques here such as jewellery, books, Christmas decorations, etc.
Heinzels Wintermärchen at Alter Markt is more focused on handmade goods and decorations. There are a few food stalls, but if you’re hungry head over to the section at Heumarkt.
Heinzels Wintermärchen at Alter Markt
From 24 November to 23 December
26 November – Closed
Daily – from 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Address: Alter Markt
Angels’ Christmas Market
Located in the heart of the shopping district, Angels’ Christmas Market (Markt der Engel) is the city’s oldest Christmas market. And the most romantic one in my opinion!
The market features an angel theme with white rustic stalls and illuminated stars hanging from the trees. It’s truly magical in the evenings!
As it comes to food, Angels’ Christmas Market is one of the best places to enjoy a savoury or sweet snack. Also, only at this market, I managed to find some delicious gingerbread cookies (but more on this later in the post).
Markt der Engel
From 20 November to 23 December
26 November – Closed
From Sunday to Thursday – 11:00 AM to 09:00 PM
Fridays and Saturdays – 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Address: Neumarkt, 50667 Köln
Markt der Engel official website
More Cologne Christmas markets
If you have enough time, I’d suggest you take a look at these four Christmas markets below. They may not be the biggest or the most magical ones in Cologne, but still have plenty of charm and a festive atmosphere.
Nicholas’ Village Christmas Market
Nicholas’ Village Christmas Market (Nikolausdorf) is situated in the backdrop of the medieval Hahentorburg, one of the city’s last remaining city gates. Its charming half-timber houses are decorated with sparkling lights and plenty of red and green. Santa and reindeer displays add to the Christmas atmosphere.
The market is smaller in size and family-oriented. Santa Claus visits Nikolausdorf every day between 4:00 PM and 4:30 PM.
Nikolausdorf
From 23 November to 23 December
From Sunday to Thursday – 11:00 AM to 09:00 PM
Fridays – 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Saturdays – 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Address: Rudolfplatz, 50674 Köln
Nikolausdorf official website
Harbour Christmas Market
Located along the banks of the Rhine River, right in front of the Chocolate Museum, is the Harbour Christmas market (Hafen-Weihnachtsmarkt). The marine theme is reflected in the decoration and the products in the market. The 70 snow-white pagoda tents with pointed roofs offer delicious fish specialities and drinks.
Don’t miss the sea shanties, pirates’ shows, the giant Ferris wheel and the wooden three-mast boat (15m in length), from where you can buy mulled wine. And in case you’re feeling too cold, just head to the shop at the Chocolate Museum!
Harbour Christmas Market
From 23 November to 23 December
Daily – from 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
From 26 December to 1 January, the market turns into a New Year market with food and drinks in front of the Ferris wheel
Address: Am Schokoladenmuseum 1A, 50678 Köln
Harbour Christmas Market official website
Stadtgarten Christmas Market
Stadtgarten Christmas Market is located in the city garden, on the edge of the city centre. This is a little bit far away from the other markets and it’s not accessible on foot from the Old Town.
The market is pretty small and features a more local vibe. There are more than 80 exhibitors, who change weekly, offering handicrafts and locally made products.
Stadtgarten Christmas Market
From 23 November to 23 December
From Monday to Friday – 04:00 PM to 09:30 PM
Saturday and Sundays – 12:00 PM to 09:30 PM
Address: Stadtgarten, Venloerstrasse 40, 50672 Köln
Stadtgarten Christmas Market official website
Heavenue Market
Heavenue Market is the only gay Christmas market in Cologne. With its pink stalls, decorated with glittering clouds, LED lights and snow-white garlands, this market is a modern twist on the traditional Christmas market.
The place is a hot spot for music and dancing, featuring countless drag performances and spectacular light shows. The best time to visit – after dark!
Heavenue Market
From 23 November to 23 December
From Monday to Thursday – 04:00 PM to 10:00 PM
From Friday to Sunday – 02:00 PM to 10:00 PM
Address: Rudolfplatz, 50674 Köln
Heavenue Market official website
Where to stay in Cologne for the Christmas market
If you’re visiting Cologne for the Christmas markets, choose a central location, so you can easily walk to most of the markets. Usually, it is very cold in December, so having a market at your doorstep where you can finish the day with a glass of mulled wine, is a great advantage.
The best place to stay in Cologne for the Christmas market is the Old Town (Altstadt). There are 3 big markets in the area, plus you’ll be a 10min walk from Markt der Engel at Neumarkt.
Find more information and recommendations in my guide to where to stay in Cologne, Germany.
CityClass Hotel Europa am Dom – Best mid-range
Perfect location, right between the market at the Dom and Heinzels Wintermärchen at Alter Markt. Rooms are comfy and offer nice views of the cathedral. Plenty of restaurants at your doorstep.
Why book – next to Kölner Dom and the train station, delicious breakfast with lots of choices
Excelsior Hotel Ernst am Dom – Best luxury
Overlooking the cathedral, Excelsior Hotel Ernst am Dom is the best 5-star hotel to stay in the city. Weihnachtsmarkt am Dom, Heinzels Wintermärchen and the Christmas Market Express stop are just a 5min walk away.
Why book – location next to the cathedral, piano bar, French and Asian restaurants, wellness centre
What to do in Cologne at Christmas
Take a winter cruise
Take this Winter Cruise with live music and Glühwein and enjoy the beautifully decorated city’s skyline during the Christmas season. You’ll see some of the most iconic sites like the Cologne Cathedral, Great St. Martin Church and Rheinau Harbour.
Take a brewery tour
You can’t visit Cologne and not taste the famous local Kölsch beer. Take this Brewery Tour with tastings and learn about the local brewing culture. You’ll visit some iconic breweries such as the 700 years old Brauhaus Sion or Früh am Dom, the city’s largest brewery.
Go ice skating
For some winter activities, head to Heinzels Wintermärchen Heumarkt. Here, besides curling, you’ll find a 2,400 square metre open ice rink. Set along the magical market, this ice rink is more than 100m long!
Take the Christmas Market Express
Cologne is a very walkable city, but if your feet start to ache or it’s too cold, there is a Christmas train you can hop on. The train runs between the four main markets around the city (the Dom, Heinzels Wintermärchen, Harbour and Angels’ market) every 15 minutes. You can find the full Christmas train schedule here.
Enjoy mulled wine at the Christmas pyramid
Christmas pyramid is a popular thing in Germany and you’ll see them all over the Christmas markets. It is supposed that the Christmas pyramid is a predecessor of the Christmas tree.
Southeast of the main market at the Dom, you’ll find a small Advent Village with a huge Christmas pyramid! Stop for a glass of mulled wine and enjoy the festive decoration.
Address: Am Hof 34-46, 50667 Köln
Cologne Christmas market food
One of the best things about visiting a Christmas market is trying all the delicious food! You’ll find countless savoury and sweet food options, ranging from grilled sausages and salmon to potato pancakes and gingerbread cookies. There is something for everyone’s taste.
Bratwurst
While exploring the markets, you’ll come across plenty of stalls selling wurst (sausages). There are all kinds of sausages, ranging from standard to bio and even vegan. They are usually served in a bun with mustard and ketchup and you can buy French fries additionally.
You can’t make it all the way to Germany and not taste this traditional meal!
Flammlachs
Flammlachs is one of my favourite Christmas market foods. And if you like fish, don’t miss these fillets of salmon roasted over an open flame on wooden boards. Served in a bun with a cabbage salad, it’s the ultimate treat!
My tip: taste the Flammlachs at Heinzels Wintermärchen at Heumarkt, they serve it with a Remoulade sauce there.
Lachsschinken
This delicious baked ham comes in a bun with cabbage salad.
My tip: taste the Lachsschinken at Angels’ Market.
Reibekuchen
Reibekuchen is a great vegetarian Christmas food option. These fried potato cakes are made from grated potato, egg, and onion and served with apple sauce.
Handbrot mit Käse
This is bread stuffed with cheese and ham (or mushrooms if you prefer the vegetarian version) and topped with sour cream.
My tip: the Handbrot at Heinzels Wintermärchen at Heumarkt was the most delicious.
Lebkuchen
Lebkuchen is a traditional gingerbread cookie. I’d recommend you skip the richly decorated heart-shaped Lebkuchen (not very tasty) and opt for the plain ones.
My tip: buy Lebkuchen from Angels’ Market, you’ll find more variety here.
Glühwein
Glühwein is a spiced hot wine, usually made with red, but you can also find white or even a rosé wine. It can be customized with an additional shot of Amaretto (a sweet Italian liqueur) or rum.
Note, that when you buy a glühwein you have to pay a deposit for the mug (usually between €2 and €4). When you return the mug, you’ll get your deposit back. You can keep the mug as a souvenir or return it, it’s up to you. Keep in mind that every market has its own mug design, so try the wine at several places to choose the best one!
My tip: If you like bitter almonds, order white mulled wine with a shot of Amaretto.
How to get to Cologne Christmas market
By train
Cologne Central train station (Köln Hauptbahnhof) is located right next to the Old Town and the cathedral. From here it’s just a short walk to the main Christmas markets.
Check timetables and book tickets online at Deutsche Bahn official site.
By car
Cologne has a Low Emission Zone, so you need an Umweltzone sticker. Parking on-street is expensive, so car parks or Park and Ride are better options (find more info about parking here).
If you’re visiting Cologne for a day, there is a good parking garage right next to the cathedral (Contipark Tiefgarage Am Dom), a great starting point for the markets.
By air
The closest airport is Cologne-Bonn Airport, about 15 kilometres away from the city centre. The most convenient option to get there is by train – take the train directly from the airport and then get off at Köln Hauptbahnhof.
Best Christmas markets near Cologne
Aachen
Just 1h away by train, Aachen, the final resting place of Charlemagne, is a great option for a day trip. Located in the shadow of the city’s cathedral, Aachener Weihnachtsmarkt is one of the best Christmas markets nearby. It is much smaller than the one in Cologne but has a lot to offer – a medieval atmosphere, magical backdrops and one of the tastiest cookies in Germany – Aachener Printen.
Find out more (plus where to eat the best gingerbread cookies) in my Aachen Christmas Market guide.
Besides Aachen, there are good Christmas markets in Düsseldorf, Bonn and Essen, too. However in my opinion they are not a must-see, especially if you have limited time in Germany. I’d recommend visiting them only if you’re looking for markets off the beaten path with a local vibe.
Faqs about Cologne Christmas market
Cologne Christmas market is one of the best not only in Germany but in Europe as well. The city features 8 Christmas markets, all differently themed with a unique atmosphere.
The best Christmas market in Cologne is Heinzels Wintermärchen, located at Heumarkt and Alter Markt. The market features a fairytale gnome theme with over 100 richly decorated wooden stalls and a 2,400 square metres open ice rink.
Although more and more vendors are beginning to accept bank cards, most stalls still require cash. So be sure to bring enough euros to buy everything your heart desires.
All 8 Christmas markets in Cologne are free and don’t require a ticket to enter.
Although both Cologne and Dusseldorf have several Christmas markets, the ones in Cologne are bigger and prettier. Each Christmas market in Cologne features a different theme and unique vibe. Plus, there is far more sightseeing to be done in Cologne, including the famous Kölner Dom.
If this is your first time in Germany, Berlin is a better place to visit for Christmas markets than Cologne. The city features more than 10 big Christmas markets and numerous small local ones (for more info see my Berlin Christmas market guide). Plus, there are plenty of historic attractions, museums and excellent restaurants.
Both Nuremberg and Cologne have excellent Christmas markets. However, if you’re looking for a medieval Christmas atmosphere with picturesque half-timbered houses, Nuremberg is the place to go. Plus, the Nürnberger Christkindlesmarkt is one of the most popular markets in all of Germany!
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